1957 Chevy Restoration "The Godfather" Part 10

1957 Chevy Restoration  "The Godfather" Part 10 - Hydraulic Flaring Kit

    As I mentioned before, I picked up a Mastercool Universal Hydraulic Flaring Kit #11535 from Eastwood to take care of all the fittings I needed throughout the build of “The Godfather”. This tool set accurately fabricates line-flaring types in aluminum, steel and soft metals (but NOT stainless steel) – Pic 1. You can see how the fuel line sits in the flaring tool with the dies for the correct flair needed – Pic 2.
Tunnel Ram
    I Purchased a great looking Edelbrock Pro Ram II Tunnel Ram intake off e-bay. You should plan to pay $350 to $450 for one of these in good condition. This one was already painted black and had the aluminum polished. It was a perfect fit for the color combination I’m going with. The Edelbrock Pro Ram II Tunnel Ram was highly prized and sought after in the early 70’s. Edelbrock Pro Ram II has a full 1” plus longer runners and the longer runners make serious Torque and HP – Pic 3.
    For whatever reason I didn’t take a lot of photos while making the fuel lines for the carbs. Basically I show taping the braided hose to control strands when I cut it and measuring the length I need – Pic 4.
    Then I show a view of the completed work. – Pic 5. The fuel regulator and pressure gauge mounted to a bracket that I attached to the front of the manifold. – Pic 6.
    This is the braided fuel line coming down from the carburetors and going thru the frame to the outside. – Pic 7. And again, anytime the steel line passes thru the frame or brackets we will run a 3/8 rubber hose as a shield over them.
    I decided to route the fuel line on the outside of the frame for safety and per NHRA rules. Of course we’ll make it contour to the frame when we attach it. – Pic 8. Here is the fuel line exiting from the engine compartment. Don’t worry, 3/8” hose will be put around fuel line to protect it from rubbing on the bare metal. Left alone this would be a prime area to chaff and rub a hole thru the fuel line.  – Pic 9. We’re running the line thru a body mount bracket. When we finished the fuel line was covered with the 3/8” hose to fully protect it. We used 3M adhesive to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere.  – Pic 10.
    Running fuel line up and over the frame well past the clutch bellhousing – Pic 11. We mounted the electric fuel pump and fuel filter as high as we could on the rear frame crossover. – Pic 12. Got a nice 90 degree bend going on for the line that goes into the fuel pump – Pic 13.
    Finished making another hard line to go over and up to the fuel filter 90 degree elbow fitting. – Pic 14. Made a braided line to go from the filter into the rear sump on the gas tank. Since this work was done I have decided to put an additional fuel cut off valve by the fuel filter and the braided hose coming from the tank. Will come in handy when changing the fuel filter. I’ll get to that soon and post pictures. – Pic 15. Since the gas tank I’m using has rear sump fuel lines I had to block off the original fuel out line coming from the gas tan. This will still allow me to utilize the fuel sending unit in the tank. I had to get a fuel sender with the correct ohms to match the upgraded fuel gauge. The resistance of your fuel sender should match that of your gauge. For instance the resistance of the stock gauge in a 57 Chevy has a value of zero ohms when empty and 30 ohms when full. The standard aftermarket units have a value of 240-33 Ohms. – Pic 16
    Here is how the engine looked in 1972 - Pic 17. And here it is now in 2017 - Pic 18

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