1957 Chevy Restoration "The Godfather" Part 12

1957 Chevy Restoration  "The Godfather" Part 12 - Gas Pedal

    Last issue I left off with “I resolved how to manually return the throttle to a closed position using the stock `57 gas pedal.” That statement should have been edited out since  I had solved the need to do that when I converted the original rod linkage to Lokar’s modern throttle cable system. Along with that I installed a Lokar Gas Pedal – Pic 1. It is designed to mount in original firewall location with offset bezel washers to align cable through firewall. The gas pedal leverage arms are splined for fine adjustment and can be switched for right and left adjustment of the throttle pad. The Throttle Pad is spring-loaded like OEM design and measures 2” x 5”– Pic 2.
    Don’t lose the offset bezel washers… for some reason I couldn’t find the ones that came with the unit and had to make new ones. I started with a solid 3/8 aluminum rod. Cut a 1” piece off and drilled a center hole for the cable housing. Then I cut the rod in half on a 45 degree angle. Now, in two pieces, I was able to rotate each to get the correct angle I needed for the cable housing to mount to the firewall – Pic 3. I guess I could have contacted Lokar for replacements but as I’ve said before “I like making things”. And besides, I’m sure I’ll find the originals as soon as I fully complete the car.
Clutch Pedal
    Years ago, while racing at ATCO Dragway in New Jersey, the clutch pedal went to the floor but no clutch action. The lever on the clutch pedal shaft had slipped. No matter how tight I made the bolt it wouldn’t grip the shaft anymore, the locking splines were gone. I found someone at the track with a portable welder to secure the lever to the shaft. At the time I thought it was a temporary fix. It’s still that way to this day. It doesn’t feel like any bushings need replacing on the shaft so I’ll leave it. I did notice that the clutch pedal was hitting the rubber stopper on the very edge and twisting the rubber stopper – Pic 4. I originally thought that the clutch shaft had moved over but it seemed tight so I checked another pedal assembly I had and that one was the same. I’m going to be dropping the clutch (once or twice – maybe more) and didn’t like how it was grabbing the rubber stop. I solved the problem by making a small L shaped steel stop to hit the entire rubber pad – Pic 5. It’s nice and solid and won’t cause the rubber stop to bend over and flip off. Caution – unbolting the clutch return spring can be a challenge. Especially when you go to reattach it. It’s like a two action spring. By that I mean that in the upper part of the travel it will pull the pedal up, and in the bottom part of the travel, it will pull it down. It’s neutral in the center of travel.
    To install the new wider steel stop I made I removed the lower spring bracket bolt and loosened the upper one (these are the 2 bolts seen on the side of the clutch pedal). I needed to swing the spring bracket towards the firewall (with the pedal to the floor) I placed a piece of 2x2 wood about 4/5” long vertically by the fuse block/driver vent and at the upper part of the dash, and turned it horizontal so that when the pedal is pushed up, the spring bracket presses against the wood block. Holding upward pressure, the bracket swings back in position and the removed bolt can be reinstalled and tightened.
    While I was under there I made a bracket to attach a neutral safety switch for the clutch– Pic 6. I don’t want to take a chance and start the car in gear – not fun.
    What is fun is doing the work and writing the articles for this project. I hope you like them and the progress so far. I also hope that this may inspire some of you with projects just sitting to finish them. You know who you are - the “I’ll get around to it someday” geearheads. I’ve seen so many “I’ll get around to it someday” cars sit outside and rot away till there’s no hope for them.

Order by: 
Per page:
  • There are no comments yet
Related Articles
I wanted a functioning modern Gauge cluster to fit in the stock `57 housing. The housing I started with was modified years ago with aftermarket gauges and the center section was filled by a mechanical Pro-Comp Auto Meter 160 MPH Speedometer.
04/15/2018 · From CSMRay
I had a polished chrome plate from another `57 that nicely covers the heater pipe access hole - Pic 1. The Raingear Electric wiper motor system kit had a cover plate for where the vacuum wiper motor was mounted which I painted glossy black.
01/27/2018 · From CSMRay
DRIVESHAFT We had a custom Driveshaft made at Central Florida Driveshaft, 307 S Combee Rd, Lakeland FL, 863-666-3874. Owner Dick Hudson had to Cut the end off our shaft to shorten it since It was originally made for another engine trans combo.
01/17/2018 · From CSMRay
Interior floor This is what it looked like in 1995 when we dragged it back from Bucks County Pennsylvania. Still had the `68 GTO bucket seats – In great shape too – Pic 1. It had the obligatory wood steering wheel that was so popular at the time
01/17/2018 · From CSMRay
Cooling System Well I guess we’ll have to start at the beginning. We used an AFCO Short Race Water Pump #10680090 to get the water flowing thru our Auto City Classic Aluminum Radiator part #SL264
01/17/2018 · From CSMRay
0 votes
Ellenton, United States
01/17/2018 (01/17/2018)
0 Subscribers
Florida, United States
All Articles by CSMRay