1957 Chevy Restoration "The Godfather" Part 14

1957 Chevy Restoration  "The Godfather" Part 14 - DRIVESHAFT

    We had a custom Driveshaft made at Central Florida Driveshaft, 307 S Combee Rd, Lakeland FL, 863-666-3874. Owner Dick Hudson had to Cut the end off our shaft to shorten it since  It was originally made for another engine trans combo - Pic 1.

The rear yoke was attached and Owner Dick Hudson is shown balancing the shaft - Pic 2.

    Welding the driveshaft was an easy task – especially when you have the right equipment set up to automatically spin the shaft at the proper speed to complete the weld - Pic 3.
    Since we’re going to make a “Few” passes down the track a safety Lakewood Driveshaft was in order. “The driveshaft loop is required to meet the NHRA safety rules if the car is running 13.99 and faster on slicks or 13.00 and faster on street tires. The rules require that the loop is mounted within 6 inches of the front U-joint on the driveshaft for support of the driveshaft in the event of a U-joint failure. The loop must enclose the driveshaft in a full 360 degrees and must be either 1/4-inch thick and 2-inches wide or 7/8-inch x 0.065-inch welded steel tubing.” Actually even if this car didn’t have track time planned I still would have installer the safety device. The key word here is SAFETY! I don’t know how many of you have actually seen a front u-joint fail but the resulting effect on the car is not pretty. It has the possibility of coming up thru the floor or even pole-vaulting and flipping the vehicle – not good.
    The Lakewood Driveshaft Safety loop installs nicely by bolting it thru the floor. Large washers were used on top of the floorboard bolts to spread out the stress load in case of failure. The bolted bottom loop provides access for driveshaft removal although a solid round loop may work just as well. Starting to install the parking brake brackets - Pic 4.
    I spotted a Black Alternator on a show car and found out it was sold by Tuff Stuff. I not only liked the fact that it was Black but was also available as a 100 AMP, 1 Wire Alternator. It’s part number #7127NF, with a V Groove Pulley.
    “All Tuff Stuff alternators are hand built in Cleveland, Ohio and are tested to meet or exceed OEM specifications. All Tuff Stuff alternators are made from 100% new components and carry a one-year limited warranty. Tuff Stuff has alternator applications for virtually all muscle cars, hot rods, customs and light trucks in just about every finish imaginable. Many enthusiasts prefer our clean, simple 1-wire alternator option which features a low idle cut-in internal regulator and provides plenty of charging at low RPMs. Available in chrome plated, polished aluminum, powder coated and plain as cast finishes.”
    I went with the Header mount system as there’s no room to mount it lower because of the `57 frame - Pic 5. After mounting the top bracket to the head, alignment of the pulleys was fairly easy - Pic 6. You can see the ground wire tag - Pic 7. All done and properly adjusted - Pic 8. Tuff Stuffs Alternator looks right at home on the `57 don’t you think! - Pic 9.
    When we do the wiring for the car we’ll come back to the alternator and hook it up. There’s still a question about wiring the alternator into the battery cut off switch for NHRA Rules.

    It took me many tries to get the dash painted correctly. The first try I left some of the factory primer on and the paint crinkled. The next try was with urethane paint but old hardener/activator. The paint came out dry right from the gun like sandpaper - Pic 10.    
    Next I used rattle cans from the local auto store. I could not apply it without streaks showing up. The final time I went back to Eastwoods Chassis Black Glossy urethane paint with the correct hardener and finally got the mirror finish I was after - Pic 11.


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