1957 Chevy Restoration "The Godfather" Part 7

1957 Chevy Restoration  "The Godfather" Part 7 - Grounding

       The last time we left off I was showing how I installed the battery in the trunk. I missed putting in the part of running the battery cables from the engine compartment back to the trunk.


        I first grounded the engine to the frame. Using HEAVY gauge cable I attached one end to the bell housing Pic 1 and the other end went to the frame of the car. You have to grind all paint off to make sure you have a solid connection metal to metal Pic 2. I then ran the same size cable from the frame to the body of the car Pic
3. Looking at Pic 3 as I’m putting this article together I noticed the spot of solder  on the copper cap. That reminded me that since I did the install I purchased a hand held Hydraulic swaging tool for battery cables. I’ll go back and use it on all connections to make sure they never come apart.

      Again grinding down to bare metal for a GOOD connection Pic 4. Now, no matter what, the car is fully grounded Pic 5.

       Here’s an interesting story about proper grounding. I picked up a `56 Chevy 2 door at one of the big auctions in Auburn IN. Nice looking car but should have paid attention to the old adage “Never buy a car in the rain…” When it was finally delivered I saw that the “waves” were actually imperfections in the bodywork – not sheets of water running off the sides as I originally thought.

        Anyway, I digress. Sometimes the car wouldn’t start. Hit the key – nothing. Don’t ask me how, but I noticed that if I rocked the car back and forth it would start. Strange… It was an automatic, rocking the car should not have any effect. Ring gear wasn’t engaged with the starter while rocking the car to turn the bendix… What could it be?

I was at Cruisin’ The Coast with the car on display and it happened again. Got me to thinking “What actually happens when you rock the car?” I went thru all kinds of scenarios and then a light went off – rockin’ the car twists the driveshaft…  Did you get it yet? Twisting the driveshaft puts pressure on the u-joint needle bearings and they make contact with the U-joint caps that are attached to the driveshaft which in turn grounds the engine. Strange – yes – far fetched apparently not. I ran a jumper cable from the engine to the frame – car started. Detached the cable – nothing. Attached it again – car started. ENGINE WASN’T PROPERLY GROUNDED! I got a strap and grounded the engine to the frame and never had the problem again.

Centerforce Clutch Assembly:

        Since The Godfather will be seeing some track time (Street/Strip) we went with a Centerfield flywheel #700162 and Dual Friction Clutch assembly #DF148552. Centerforce steel flywheels are manufactured from high quality billet steel and match closely to the original equipment flywheel weight. Centerforce steel flywheels are CAD/CAM-designed and CNC-machined from billet steel for precise, no-hassle, bolt-in installation. Centerforce billet steel flywheels are SFI-certified, so you know that you can count on them, on the street and on the track.

         The Centerforce Dual Friction ® Clutch Series is a performance matched pressure plate & disc combination featuring the patented Centerforce centrifugal weight system (where applicable) and specialized machining processes to provide a performance clutch that offers exceptional street characteristics, while offering outstanding holding-capacity and durability. Furthermore, the Centerforce Dual Friction disc has a full facing on the pressure plate side for drivability and longevity, while a carbon composite puc-style (segmented) facing is used on the flywheel side for a positive engagement and increased holding-capacity. The Dual Friction clutch is engineered for those who are looking for the ultimate in street/strip holding power and performance without sacrificing pedal effort and driver control. While the Dual Friction has been engineered primarily as a street clutch it can be used in mild competition applications.

         I installed a needle roller pilot bearing into the one-piece seal crankshaft Pic 6. I then installed the Centerforce flywheel using Arp Flywheel Bolts #2002807 Pic 7. Lubricate the threads of the bolt with Loctite 242 and the under head of the bolt with ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant Pic 8. Tighten the bolts hand tight. Using an alternating or criss cross pattern, torque the bolts to 75 ft lbs. Pic 9. I placed the clutch plate on the flywheel and used a clutch alignment tool to center it. Pic 10. I installed the Centerforce Pressure plate and torqued the bolts to 45ft lbs.

        Next came the Lakewood Safety Bellhousing #15003 with the clutch fork and throwout bearing Pic 11. Lakewood safety bellhousings are designed for maximum performance and durability. Here’s our Power Brute Super T-10 Pic 12.






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